Pilling performance depends on fibre, yarn, fabric structure, finishing, wear exposure and the selected test procedure. ISO 12945 currently contains four published parts. They use different pilling actions and their results should not be treated as interchangeable.
Start with the buyer or product specification. If it is silent, agree the method, parameters, endpoint and acceptance criterion before testing. ISO 12945 defines test methods; it does not supply one universal pass grade for every textile product.
Choose the Required ISO 12945 Part
ISO 12945-1:2020 — Pilling Box Method
Use this part when the product or buyer specification calls for the pilling-box method. Describe the method family and the specification decision in general guidance; use the licensed standard for specimen preparation, apparatus settings and detailed procedure.
ISO 12945-2:2020 — Modified Martindale Method
This is a pilling, fuzzing and matting method. Do not confuse it with ISO 12947 abrasion testing merely because both use Martindale-type apparatus. The method, specimen preparation, endpoint and result must be identified correctly.
ISO 12945-3:2020 — Random Tumble Pilling Method
Use the random-tumble method only when it is applicable to the fabric and required by the specification. Do not compare its grades directly with another pilling method unless the specification provides a valid basis.
ISO 12945-4:2020 — Assessment by Visual Analysis
Use controlled reference and assessment practice. Record the assessment conditions, individual results and any permitted instrumental or visual procedure required by the specification.
Pilling and Abrasion Are Different Test Families
Pilling assesses surface pills, fuzzing or matting under a specified action. Abrasion testing evaluates resistance to wear through endpoints such as specimen breakdown, mass loss or appearance change. Read the separate Martindale abrasion guide before interpreting ISO 12947 results.
What a Complete Test Request Should State
- Product, lot, colour and specimen side
- ISO 12945 part and edition
- Required preparation, conditioning and test parameters
- Assessment stage and reference practice
- Buyer or product acceptance criterion
- Permitted deviations and reporting format
Reporting and Investigating a Failure
Report the exact standard part and edition, specimen identification and side tested, preparation and conditioning, agreed test parameters, assessment stage, individual and overall results, reference used, any deviation and the buyer’s acceptance criterion.
If a specimen fails, first verify the method and assessment. Then investigate fibre release, yarn hairiness, twist and structure, fabric construction, singeing or surface preparation, finishing, heat history and laundering or wear simulation. Change one variable at a time and confirm improvement with the same specified method.
Test-method selection, equipment control and corrective action should be governed through the mill’s quality-management controls for textile laboratories and production.
Sources and Review
- ISO 12945-1:2020 — pilling box method, accessed 16 August 2026.
- ISO 12945-2:2020 — modified Martindale method, accessed 16 August 2026.
- ISO 12945-3:2020 — random tumble method, accessed 16 August 2026.
- ISO/TC 38/SC 24 catalogue — current ISO 12945 parts, accessed 16 August 2026.
Use licensed copies of the applicable parts. Confirm current review status, buyer method and acceptance criteria before publication or testing.
